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Dia Quarenta e sete

I napped til 3pm and then we watched some of the best surfers in the world riding giant waves. Tomorrow’s going to be a big day: I’m gonna try out the tips I got from the local restaurant on cooking octopus and I feel confident we’ll submit the iOS app.
Poseidon wasn’t elfin around this morning; Surfline was reporting it at 15-18ft, occasional 22ft. It took me half an hour to paddle out to the reef, and when I finally scratched into the first bomb, it felt like I was never going to reach the bottom. Caught a couple more before suffering a few nasty hold-downs and calling it.

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