Logo 6531466cc825cbdc6e77315bd51f1fdbab64dbd7661fea1ea0bb825e78635c1e

Hamburger 2c8ae815faf9313d8e5eb6d957bd7016f6e0a9476a970f71c1e839ea6dea6a96

Dia Trinta e um


Five weeks in to food rationing and I think I finally got a handle on it. Had twenty euros so I bought eight euros (three bottles) worth of port and wine to celebrate.

Ran out of the apartment as the sun was setting, paddled out, and came out of two barrels back-to-back whuhhhht! It was mostly closing out, but sometimes it would double-up and sort of horseshoe as it hit the sand bar; it was pretty much: take off right behind the peak, pump real big as soon as you get up, get mmmmbarreled, then come out the doggie door before the secondary wave shuts the whole thing down. Can’t believe these breaks are all walking distance; it’s a goddamn sin.

Get the cartoons fresh in your feed: