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Dia Trinta e um

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Five weeks in to food rationing and I think I finally got a handle on it. Had twenty euros so I bought eight euros (three bottles) worth of port and wine to celebrate.

Ran out of the apartment as the sun was setting, paddled out, and came out of two barrels back-to-back whuhhhht! It was mostly closing out, but sometimes it would double-up and sort of horseshoe as it hit the sand bar; it was pretty much: take off right behind the peak, pump real big as soon as you get up, get mmmmbarreled, then come out the doggie door before the secondary wave shuts the whole thing down. Can’t believe these breaks are all walking distance; it’s a goddamn sin.

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